When Josh Sharkey sat down with Thomas Buckley at Nobu in Miami, he opened with what sounded like an easy question: how many Nobu restaurants are there now? Buckley paused.
Sixty, maybe sixty-two, with a few more already on the way. After nearly twenty-eight years with the company, he'd stopped keeping count of the restaurants. What he hadn't stopped keeping track of was the standard.
On the meez Podcast, Buckley walked through what recipe consistency across locations actually requires when the food is served in more than sixty dining rooms on six continents.
For most restaurant groups, consistency is treated as an outcome, something great teams naturally produce. Buckley sees it differently. Consistency is something you engineer. It isn't protected by talented chefs or strong culture alone; it's protected by documentation, discipline, and thousands of small operational decisions that ensure the same dish can be recreated by someone who wasn't there when it was developed.
Consistency starts long before anyone cooks
Most operators treat a recipe as the finish line: develop the dish, cost it, put it on the menu, move on. Buckley knows that's when the real work begins. Every new restaurant asks the same question: can someone who has never cooked this dish before reproduce it exactly as intended?
If the answer depends on finding the right chef, the system isn't scalable. If the answer lives in the recipe itself, it is.
Ask Buckley how Nobu keeps its food consistent around the world and he doesn't begin with philosophy. He starts with purchasing specifications, down to the named brand:
"We have two brands: one for the den miso, the sweet miso for the black cod, and one for miso soup. We have a big supply from Japan. We use JFC for all the products. And we give the chef lists of these non-negotiables."
That list of non-negotiables runs deep. Kikkoman remains the foundation for soy sauce the company has relied on since the beginning, while other preparations call for a higher-grade light soy.
The sushi rice comes from Niigata, selected after Buckley and Nobu Matsuhisa traveled to the region and met directly with local agricultural officials. Steamed rice is an entirely different variety, grown in California.
A chef opening a Nobu in Manila isn't deciding which soy sauce feels right, and a chef in Chicago isn't experimenting with rice. The decision has already been made, and that level of specificity is what allows creativity to exist elsewhere.
It also reflects a broader challenge facing multi-unit restaurant groups. A Censuswide survey of 400 restaurant executives conducted for MachineQ found that only half of respondents considered centralized, real-time data across locations critical to improving performance.
Many groups are still running on individual interpretation instead of shared standards.
Buckley's approach points in the opposite direction: the clearer the specification becomes, the safer delegation becomes, and recipes, training, and kitchen procedures all build from that foundation.
A standard that exists only in someone's memory isn't really a standard at all, it's experience, and experience doesn't automatically scale.
The dishes that drift aren't the complicated ones
Josh Sharkey expected Buckley to name one of Nobu's iconic dishes when he asked which recipe is hardest to execute consistently. Black cod. Sushi. Tempura. Instead, Buckley answered almost immediately: salads.
"I think the one that gets messed up the most is salads, to be honest. People end up putting too much dressing. You can always add, but you can't take it away. Once you're committed, that's it."
The same pattern appears elsewhere in the kitchen.
Tempura isn't difficult because it's technically complicated. It's difficult because cooks instinctively want to eliminate the lumps in the batter, even though those lumps are exactly what produce the proper texture.
Mix too aggressively and gluten develops, the batter becomes heavy, and the result changes completely. Rice presents another challenge: its preparation shifts throughout the year as new harvests replace older crops, water ratios change, rinsing technique matters, and tiny adjustments become necessary even when the recipe itself hasn't changed.
Execution problems usually don't begin with complicated food
Consistency problems begin with ordinary techniques nobody thought to document.
Industry experience reflects that reality. FSR highlighted a similar issue through Michael Thompson, Corporate Executive Chef at The Old Spaghetti Factory in Canada, who observed a gap between the written recipe and what teams actually produced. His conclusion was simple: lots of people can read the same recipe and get different results.
That's why Buckley sees documentation differently than many operators do.
A recipe isn't successful because the chef who wrote it can execute it. It's successful when someone who wasn't part of its creation can reproduce it with confidence. That becomes the real test of consistency, not whether the recipe makes sense to its author, but whether it survives its next handoff.
Recipe consistency across locations means deciding what can change
For all of Nobu's precision, Buckley knows that perfect uniformity isn't possible.
A restaurant group operating across six continents will eventually run into ingredients that simply aren't available. Suppliers change, seasons shift, and local markets create constraints no purchasing specification can eliminate. The challenge isn't avoiding those moments; it's deciding what happens next.
"Especially internationally, something tastes different. In Manila we couldn't get the yuzu, so we started to use the local citrus — calamansi. And then the soy sauce was different, because it had been sat for a long time."
Buckley already knew calamansi well enough to grow it in his own garden in Miami, so the substitution wasn't treated as a workaround. It became an intentional operational decision.
The soy sauce problem was subtler: the locally available product wasn't wrong, it had simply spent too long in storage and no longer tasted like the product the recipes had been developed around.
Those examples highlight an important distinction. Consistency doesn't mean pretending every location has identical conditions.
Adaptation should be deliberate, documented, and repeatable
How to effectively adapt to substitutions internationally is a lesson many growing restaurant groups eventually learn. Nation's Restaurant News described the same balancing act in Wingstop's international expansion, where an executive framed the approach as balancing global consistency with local relevance.
Buckley would likely describe it more simply: substitutions aren't the problem; undocumented substitutions are. When an ingredient changes, the recipe should change with it.
A note as plain as an approved alternate quantity means the team can make the right call without improvising, and it leaves a record for whoever cooks that dish next.
Otherwise today's practical decision becomes tomorrow's forgotten exception, and forgotten exceptions have a habit of turning into permanent drift.
Great Recipes Teach Judgment, Not Just Measurements
Some of the most important parts of cooking don't fit neatly inside a recipe, and Buckley knows that. Ask him about training and the conversation quickly moves beyond ingredients and technique to taste.
Young cooks sometimes see the garde manger station as less prestigious than the grill or sushi bar; Buckley sees exactly the opposite. That's where they learn how food should taste.
"You learn the flavor. Drink some miso soup every day, get into the rhythm of it, get the vibe. Clear soup, you really educate your palate, because Japanese food can be subtle. Learn how to use salt properly. Develop umami in your palate. Learn which parts of your mouth are being active. Now you taste it on your tongue, but now can you taste it all around your mouth?"
— Thomas Buckley, Corporate Executive Chef, Nobu Restaurants
That's difficult knowledge to document, but Buckley still finds ways to build systems around it.
Repetition creates standardization
Whenever possible, Nobu asks its Japanese sushi chefs or kitchen chefs to taste the rice and soups before service, not because they're the only people capable of judging quality, but because years of repetition create a calibration that's difficult to replace. Those rituals are part of the recipe, even if no ingredient list could ever fully describe them.
The challenge becomes even more significant as restaurants continue navigating high turnover.
Modern Restaurant Management reports that industry turnover remains above 75 percent, with Cornell research putting replacement costs at roughly $5,864 per employee.
Nearly three-quarters of operators expect to hire this year while anticipating continued difficulty finding experienced chefs and managers. When experienced people leave that frequently, institutional knowledge can't depend entirely on institutional memory; it has to become part of the operating system.
Recipes stop being reference documents. They become training tools. And when photos, videos, tasting notes, and procedural guidance live alongside the recipe itself, new cooks inherit much more than measurements. They inherit accumulated experience.
Nobu Starts Opening Restaurants Years Before Opening Day
One of the most revealing moments in Buckley's conversation isn't about food at all; it's about timing. People imagine restaurant openings as a final push that begins a few weeks out. Buckley describes something very different, a runway that stretches back years:
- Two to three years out: teams are already making decisions about kitchen layouts, dining rooms, lighting, music, equipment, and operational workflows.
- About a year out: budgets are finalized and operating supplies are ordered.
- Six to eight months out: recruitment begins for key leadership positions.
- Final two months: training accelerates.
- Opening: a carefully orchestrated four-week task force deployment, followed by additional support after launch and scheduled return visits one month and two months later.
None of that happens by accident. It happens because consistency is planned, not inspected. And when Josh Sharkey pushed Buckley on what actually makes that scale work, the answer was immediate:
"It's hard to pin, but it really boils down to this, and it still works: we will put the top-tier management from our group into whatever location, train them, and put them there. The executive chef, the general manager, the head sushi chef, sometimes the pastry chef, bar manager — those top spots. And that really helps set the tone and consistency."
The rest of the team can be hired locally. The standard cannot.
Training ≠ documentation
Underneath it sits a documentation layer: Buckley explains that Nobu's corporate trainer has built an extensive video library that every new team can access throughout training, and that library is what makes a compressed opening schedule possible, because every location begins from the same body of knowledge.
The broader industry has moved in the same direction.
FSR has reported that for multi-unit operators, standardized recipes and streamlined training protocols make it easier to replicate success in new markets.
Restaurant groups should maintain a single source of truth for recipes across locations instead of allowing each kitchen to build its own interpretation, which is the same principle behind how meez approaches multi-unit recipe management.
The Same Recipe Can Produce Very Different Food Costs
Consistency isn't only about how a dish tastes, it's also about what it costs. That's a lesson Buckley learned as Nobu expanded across the United States. Some of the company's supplier relationships stretch back to its earliest days.
When Nobu Matsuhisa opened his first restaurant, he persuaded a sake brewery on Sado Island to sell exclusively through him in the United States, and the seafood suppliers who helped source black cod and rock shrimp for the original New York restaurant grew alongside the company as Nobu expanded. Those relationships remained strong. The economics didn't.
As the restaurant group added more locations, freight, warehousing, and regional distribution costs created surprising differences. The same ingredient could cost roughly $11 per pound in New York and $17 or $18 per pound on the West Coast. The recipe hadn't changed. The supplier hadn't necessarily changed. The cost had.
Solving it became one of Buckley's first priorities as Corporate Executive Chef.
Consistency isn't only what reaches the guest. It's what reaches the P&L
Rather than abandoning trusted suppliers, Nobu widened its distribution network, bringing in partners like Sysco to even out pricing while preserving the quality standards it had spent decades building. It's an important reminder that operational consistency and financial consistency aren't the same thing. A perfectly executed recipe can still produce dramatically different food costs if ingredient pricing isn't updated alongside it.
Ingredient costs move, suppliers change, and purchasing evolves. Recipes have to evolve with them, which is why dish-level costing has to update as supplier prices change rather than sit frozen at the moment it was first calculated. Otherwise, operators end up comparing actual food costs against theoretical numbers that stopped reflecting reality months ago.
A Recipe Isn't Finished Until Every Kitchen Changes With It
One of the stories Buckley shared illustrates just how much work can hide behind a seemingly simple recipe update.
Several years ago, Nobu decided to remove refined sugar from its sushi rice seasoning and replace it with monk fruit. The idea sounded simple. The execution wasn't.
Early versions developed an unpleasant saccharin-like aftertaste, and it took repeated testing before the team identified a monk fruit product that delivered the sweetness they wanted without crystallizing. Eventually, they arrived at a version Buckley felt represented a real improvement.
Documentation isn't simply a record of the standard
For many restaurants, that would have marked the end of the project. For Nobu, it marked the beginning of another one, because now the change had to reach more than sixty restaurants around the world, and that requires much more than sending an updated recipe.
Buckley described gathering corporate chefs from Europe and the United States in New York to review an upcoming caviar cookbook with Nobu Matsuhisa himself. As they compared recipes from different regions, they discovered five or six inconsistencies, mostly subtle differences in portion sizes and a few dishes that had gradually become sweeter in the United States than in Europe. None of those differences were dramatic. Every one of them mattered. The meeting wasn't about inventing new dishes, it was about restoring alignment.
Recipe development doesn't end when the food tastes right in the test kitchen. It ends when every kitchen is preparing it the same way.
Documentation is the mechanism that keeps the standard from quietly drifting over time.
Consistency Isn't About Control. It's About Trust.
One of the reasons Nobu has been able to grow without losing its identity is that Buckley doesn't confuse consistency with rigidity. Some restaurant groups run on total lockdown, and Buckley knows what that looks like too.
"He allows that freedom, which, in some restaurants, is unheard of, right? This is the menu, this is the food, it's my food, you do it that way, shut up, get to work. Whereas, yes, we have the classics and the original dishes that we keep the same, but there's definitely a lot of freedom for the chefs to create."
The restaurants aren't identical. Chefs still create omakase menus, regional influences still appear, and creativity still has room to flourish. But that creativity exists inside clearly defined boundaries, and those boundaries are written down. That's what allows Nobu Matsuhisa's leadership philosophy: giving talented people the freedom to do their jobs, to actually work.
Autonomy without standards creates inconsistency. Standards without autonomy create stagnation.
Buckley has spent nearly three decades finding the balance between the two.
Which makes his final lesson surprisingly practical: the question isn't whether your chefs are talented; it's whether the standard survives when they aren't in the room.
Ask yourself:
- If your strongest chef left tomorrow, how much of your operational knowledge would leave with them?
- If a supplier discontinued a key product next week, would every location know exactly what to substitute?
- If you opened your next restaurant six months from now, what would the new team receive on day one besides recipes?
Those questions reveal whether knowledge belongs to individuals or to the organization itself.
Toward the end of the conversation, after recording had essentially wrapped, Buckley mentioned what still remained on his schedule.
"I'm working on Miami Spice menus right now. I've got to look at the Omakase menu for summer launch... and I've got to send out those recipe updates and plate updates from Nobu's visit."
Twenty-eight years. More than sixty restaurants. And the work still comes back to updating recipes. That may be the clearest definition of consistency there is: not making the perfect recipe once, but making sure every kitchen is cooking the current one.
Build a recipe system your standards can grow with, so a new cook in your next location executes the same dish as your strongest cook in your first. See how meez handles kitchen training.
Listen to the full episode: 28 years inside Nobu with Chef Thomas Buckley, why Nobu's legacy continues to grow, lasting relationships, and Thomas' $250 Grilled Cheese
FAQ
How do restaurant groups keep recipes consistent across multiple locations?
Buckley describes consistency as beginning with clear, non-negotiable specifications. Nobu standardizes key ingredients down to named brands for miso, soy, and rice, places experienced leadership into each new restaurant, and supports local teams with documented recipes, training, and operational standards so every kitchen begins from the same foundation.
What is multi-unit recipe management?
Multi-unit recipe management is the practice of maintaining one authoritative version of every recipe across every location, with centralized updates, costing, and version history. Rather than allowing each restaurant to manage its own recipe files, changes are distributed from a single source so every kitchen is working from the same current standard.
How should international restaurant groups handle ingredient substitutions?
Document them. Substitutions themselves aren't the problem, since restaurants operating globally will inevitably encounter unavailable ingredients. When Nobu couldn't source yuzu in Manila, the kitchen moved to local calamansi. The risk comes when a swap is made informally instead of being recorded against the recipe, creating inconsistencies that compound over time.
How long does it take Nobu to open a new restaurant?
Planning typically begins two to three years before opening. Budgets and equipment are finalized about a year out, senior management hiring begins six to eight months before launch, training intensifies during the final two months, and opening is supported by a four-week task force followed by follow-up visits at one month and two months.
Why are simple dishes often the hardest to execute consistently?
Because they leave very little room for correction. Buckley points to salads as the most common source of inconsistency across Nobu's locations, since over-dressing can't be undone once the dressing is added. Stations like the sushi bar tend to be more consistent because they're supported by highly structured training and repetition.
What should a recipe SOP include?
Beyond ingredients and quantities, effective SOPs include preparation steps, temperatures, plating guidance, portion standards, visual references, and version history so teams know they have the current spec. Combining written procedure with photo and video documentation helps teams reproduce technique more consistently across locations.
How do you roll out recipe changes across every location?
Through a centralized system that distributes the update from one source to every kitchen at once, with connected sub-recipes and costs recalculating automatically. Buckley's monk fruit example shows why this matters: development wasn't complete until more than sixty restaurants had adopted the new version of the sushi rice seasoning.
Does centralized recipe management reduce training time?
Yes. Centralized recipes and standardized training materials give every new employee access to the same documented knowledge, making onboarding more consistent while reducing dependence on verbal instruction and individual memory. That matters more as turnover rises, since churn above 75 percent means the standard has to outlive the people who taught it.





