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Drew Nieporent on Nobu, Tribeca Grill, and the Art of the Restaurateur

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About this episode

Josh sits down with Drew Nieporent, one of the most influential restaurateurs in American dining and the man behind Montrachet, Tribeca Grill, Nobu, Corton, and Bâtard. Over four decades he opened 40 restaurants and has partnered with some of the world's best chefs, from David Bouley to Paul Liebrandt to Marcus Glocker. Recorded at Nobu Downtown, the conversation centers around Drew's belief that the restaurateur is the director, and the chef, the wine, the service, and the room are the cast. His new memoir "I'm Not Trying to Be Difficult" traces the whole arc.

Drew digs into the complicated relationship between a restaurateur and the chefs he builds alongside, why he refused to name a restaurant after a chef ("if it fails, you can never use your name again"), and what actually keeps a restaurant alive for decades: affordable rent, replicable quality, a comfortable room, and gentle prices. He breaks down naming Nobu over Matsuhisa, pruning the menu to a core that has barely changed in 32 years, and how a teenage job at McDonald's led to the Daily Burger at Madison Square Garden, 2,000 a game. There are detours through Danny Meyer, Keith McNally, Robert De Niro, and Muhammad Ali, and it closes on the hard truth of his own metaphor: they can make a movie about your life, but the director never gets to walk up and take the award

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Visit Myriad Restaurant Group: https://www.myriadrestaurantgroup.com

Follow Drew on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/drewnieporent

What We Cover

02:49 The Kitchen In The Window

06:49 The Restaurateur As Director

07:54 Growing Up In 1960s New York

12:52 Danny Meyer And The Rise Of Shake Shack

14:51 Losing Chefs: Boulud, Liebrandt, And Corton

24:30 What Makes A Restaurant Last

39:15 Signature Dishes And Naming Nobu

43:28 The Daily Burger At Madison Square Garden

51:56 Coppola, De Niro, And A Life Around Film

57:44 What He's Most Proud Of

Transcript

Drew Nieporent (00:00.116)Nobody can really relate to a restaurateur. Like like I you w when we talk about director, it took a long time in movies for the director to get any street cred. It's always the actors. And now I've been a partner with Robert De Niro 35 years and he hates most directors. So when we're doing the restaurant, you know, of course I love the artist, Nobu Matsuisa. you, you're the one who put me into business. You're the one who made this thing. it was a no-brainer.

I opened a Nobu. We're gonna bring Matsuisa to the w east coast as no brainer. No brainer.

Joshua Sharkey (00:36.77)You're listening to the meez Podcast. I'm your host, Josh Sharkey, the founder and CEO of meez, a culinary operating system for food professionals. On the show, we're gonna talk to high performers in the food business, everything from chefs to CEOs, technologists, writers, investors, and more about how they innovate.

And operate and how they consistently execute at a high level day after day. And I would really love it if you could drop us a five-star review anywhere that you listen to your podcast. That could be Apple, that could be Spotify, could be Google. I'm not picky. Anywhere works, but I really appreciate the support. And as always, I hope you enjoy the show. First of all, Drew, I wanna

I want to thank you for for doing this, man. I I I can't believe that I have not met you in over twenty five years in in New York, but I felt your career for ever and I'm just I'm really grateful to be able to to to have this time with you, man.

Drew Nieporent (01:31.822)Appreciate it. y you've worked in great restaurants that I didn't own. As we will see when we're talking, we obviously know the same people. Yes. but that's the industry at at large anyway. Although a lot of things have changed. It's still great to be able to sort of go back and retrace our steps, I think.

Joshua Sharkey (01:36.928)Right.

Joshua Sharkey (01:53.826)Yeah, well that's important. Well by the way, I brought you a gift. Two gifts. One, ironically, we talked about. So this is the greatest kitchen tool in the world. Spoon. wow. This is the deluxe spoon. so I give this I because I think everybody should have one. Yeah, if you open it there's a little message as well. I know that you thought you might be going to culinary school when you went to Cornell, but you still cook.

Drew Nieporent (02:05.021)wow.

Wow.

Drew Nieporent (02:20.618)No, I want it to be a chef and I still cook. Yeah. what's fun is that my wife just like corrects everything I did. Hey.

Joshua Sharkey (02:27.928)Wait, does she know my wife? 'Cause Irish. This is a scale when you cook. I mean, no, you know, drugs, food, whatever you're gonna

Drew Nieporent (02:29.602)Yeah.

Irish, forget about.

Drew Nieporent (02:39.392)Excellent. Thank you so much, man.

Joshua Sharkey (02:41.474)But speaking of Kunts, when we were first chatting, you you said you had a story about the the opening of Cafre Grey. Can can we start there?

Drew Nieporent (02:49.206)Yeah, of course, because you know, when I opened my first restaurant in nineteen eighty-five, you know, David Boulet had not been a chef in other restaurants. I had met him in San Francisco, where he was working with Hubert Keller, Sutter five hundred. But because Morachet had such an impact on the whole culinary scene.

You know, for me, i of course, it was always about getting to know all the players and all the top professionals, of which Grey Kunz was preeminent. And the funny story was, you know, Gray did approach me at some point about collaborating on doing a restaurant. and he w I think I I you know, I ha I have his prospectus, Cafe Gray and but the timing wasn't good. For whatever reason

I never pursued it. But when he's about to do Cafe Gray, he used David Rockwell, who designs Nobu, this place, and they are having trouble opening the restaurant. So they decide they're gonna have an opening party, but it's gonna be like a construction party, and they're gonna give out construction hats and it's gonna be fun like that. And it's in Hudson Yards, which is in and of itself pretty amazing. So we walk in.

And you know, it's a construction site. And the first thing you see is the kitchen in the windows. This unbelievable kitchen with one, two, three, four, at least five huge windows looking into Central Park. And I swear to you, I go over to David Rockwell and I go, Who's the genius who decided to put the kitchen in the windows?

I mean, I I think it's an abomination to me. Cause customers every customer, could I have a table by the window when I worked any restaurant with any views? So I asked the question and he is, do you like it was my idea? You know, like he doesn't get the joke or anything.

Joshua Sharkey (05:07.704)That was very controversial, I remember.

Drew Nieporent (05:09.678)The next day, Rockwell calls me up and he says, Listen, I got a problem. Can you help me with it? I said, What? I said, Florence Fabrican is interviewing Gray Koontz. And he's taking credit for putting the kitchen in the window. What should I do? And I go, Hmm, you know, David, let him have that one. And and everyone killed it. Now, I swear to God.

Cafe Grade did like eight million dollars the first year or 12 and and and it and it ultimately didn't succeed. Yeah. The next restaurant was a voce. I get invited to an opening party. I'm like, what do they what did they do with the kitchen? And you walk in and you don't, and of course it's a finished restaurant now, thank God. But you walk in and they they built a bluff, and there's one window with a table in front of it. Yeah. And they go, they gave the view back to the customers.

Meanwhile, the kitchen was exactly where it was.

Joshua Sharkey (06:08.142)Yeah. Well it was it'd be t it'd be hard to rip that out. No, you c Yeah.

Drew Nieporent (06:11.15)Couldn't So I mean, you know, God bless Great Kunz. He cooked like an angel, but even less benace, very, very, very fussy, but wha you could save, you know, Swiss and ahead of his time.

Joshua Sharkey (06:27.192)Yeah. Yeah, for sure. Well, and Mike, I I sorry that I didn't do this, but for everybody listening, we are at Nobu downtown with Drew. We also are gonna talk about your book. I'm not Well, hopefully we'll talk about some more stories.

Drew Nieporent (06:38.798)That story's not in the book, by the way.

It's a good story. I I'll try to give you a number of stories that are not in the book, but there are great stories in the book.

Joshua Sharkey (06:49.26)Well, you know what's interesting is that you have had every I mean, t every chef working with you. Jeremy Fox and obviously Boole. I mean the w the the the list is Tracy Jar D Jardine, that the the list is incredible. But there's there's a premise that you seem to have that I actually agree with a lot. It's funny 'cause I'm I I was a chef for most of my life, but I I fully believe this this notion of you are the the the director of a of a

As as a restaurateur and you're s you're really building a cast of characters. There's the you there's chefs, there's service, there's wine, there's the ambiance, there's the architects and and you have an interesting relationship with chefs because you've helped to sort of like create a a launching pad for some of the best in the world. And then they also often go and do their own thing. You know, and maybe, you know, I wanna I wanna hear more about that. But what is I I'd love to hear your your thoughts on how you think about

you know, the chefs that you've that you brought on. What what sparks your eye with them? A no boo or a boulay and why and

Drew Nieporent (07:54.266)I I think you have to put everything in in a certain reference that I grew up in the sixties. And my father worked for the State Liquor Authority, actually had offices at at one point down the block at Cham on Chamber Street, which is now residential, but he also had World Trade Center. And the liquor authority licensed restaurants, gave them liquor license so they could serve wine and and beer. In the sixties, these people were right off the boat. You know, they were so thankful they invited my father.

Bring his family to all these restaurants. So we were eating in great restaurants, Italian, French, delis, everything. Those days, the owners hid the chefs. The chefs were workers. The kitchens, there's no such thing as an open kitchen. So for me, growing up and seeing all these things as a young person, I first of all, I knew right away what I wanted to do. But second of all, like it's it's like theater. My mother was an actress. So there was a great

part of going to a restaurant that was very theatrical, which I loved. And so like open kitchens, the stage, lighting. David David Rockwell basically is doing Broadway shows and he's the greatest restaurant designer there is. So my my mother, was a child actress, later in life became a casting director. So what does a casting director do? It you know, do you have to find a person to play this role in a movie or a a commercial or

Show whatever. What I did in my life was I had to find the most talented chef who wasn't a complete bah ba who I could play music with, like I really wanted to collaborate. And let me tell you, Josh.

Not easy. They do not like so so you you sort of made a little bit of a mention to it, which the second you like like we're gonna do this and we're gonna get a notoriety and blah, blah, blah. The second Morache got three stars with a sixteen dollar menu in 1985, Boulet was out the door. But he wasn't just out the door. He wanted to take my dishwasher and he wanted and I hadn't done anything to this person except

Drew Nieporent (10:13.92)Lead them to the promised land for both of us. We were 29 years old. Actually, he turned out to be a little bit older than I am, but that back then he told me he was the same age as I was. and it didn't matter. Usually, success, the chef says to themselves, have to prove that I'm the reason. He's not the reason. So it didn't bother me, but I obviously.

I I opened 40 restaurants in 40 years. I had to be able to stand on my my own two feet. But I am totally aware that in the world of in the world of culinary arts in America, all you have to do is look at the James Beer Awards. There's one, one award for a restaurateur. And guess when that was started? Like a a handful of years ago.

Joshua Sharkey (11:08.462)Danny Meyer's the first one, right? Yeah, yeah.

Drew Nieporent (11:09.688)Well, Danny Meyer wins everything from and then there's a whole story behind here, but I'm gonna tell you this over lunch later. The restaurateur, nobody can really relate to a restaurateur. Like like I you w when we talk about director, it took a long time in movies for the director to get any street cred. It's always the actors. And now I've been a partner with Robert De Niro thirty five years, and he hates most directors. So when we're doing the restaurant, you know, of course I love the artist, Nobumatsuisa.

you, you're the one who put me into business. You're the one who made this thing. it was a no brainer. I opened a Nobu. We're gonna bring Matsuisa to the w east coast as no brainer. No brainer. I mean, the whole production. So it the whole thing, I understand it. So I'm I'm Danny Meyer. I'm gonna tell you a quick Danny Meyer story. And Danny even told it, I think, in his fortieth anniversary at Union Square Cafe.

Brian Miller gave Union Square Cafe a two star review, which previously he had gotten like one star.

So they started doing amazing business. And then of course the Zagat survey was very instrumental with Union Square Cafe. But Morache opens, and in April of 1985, we get three stars with a $16 menu. So one night, Danny Meyer comes in with Ali Barker, his chef. They sit in the corner and they're like this, you know, they're looking around. And I can read their mind, which is how the fuck did this place get three stars?

Joshua Sharkey (12:50.402)Yeah.

Drew Nieporent (12:52.118)And then of course, Danny Meyer, like you know, we came up together, eighty-five to the nineties. And Danny Meyer was afraid to open another restaurant. He was from the Andre Saltner. You have to have one restaurant, you have to do it well, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. But then, and I believe this, they said, Wow, Drew Naporin, he's not that smart. And look what he's doing. Yes.

Joshua Sharkey (13:19.502)You really think it's

Drew Nieporent (13:21.024)And and and and we can do other things. So then they did Gramacy Tavern and that opened the floodgates. And then, you know, I mean he told it the other day on Instagram. They served hot dogs in Madison Square Park. The whole shake check thing is an accident. And by the way, you're kind of a New Yorker. I'm a New Yorker. A line? I worked at McDonald's.

The whole beauty of McDonald's is that you trade off the quality of the of the of of the product for now waiting, for getting your your food fast. But the line, like there's a camera, and now it shows the line at Shake Shack and the line has only got 20 people on it. I mean, it's like i everything was counterintuitive, but he is a master. And he's now like the last time I saw him, I was like, man.

I'm talking to a billionaire. He's a billionaire. And by a billionaire, not even close. My wife thinks we have no money. But the bottom line is when I die, she'll have everything.

Joshua Sharkey (14:27.896)But

Joshua Sharkey (14:32.718)I mean it's gotta be tough having, you know, all of these incredible chefs that, you know, like Bou Boulet, you you guys got three stars. He goes across the streets open Boulay. Paul Liebert does a similar thing after you guys skipped a review and then I I think he was planning on it but d maybe didn't but

Drew Nieporent (14:34.401)It's

Drew Nieporent (14:51.906)But the the Paul Librand thing, you know, like the that's a great story too. Here's a guy. He worked for Boole. So we're s we're swap we're swapping Boulet stories. And he's like, wow. I I I think myself I said, well, you know, if he sees what Boulet did, then he he won't do the same thing. HBO did a movie. A matter of taste about the opening of Corton.

The girl who made the film, she had been following him for eight years to all the places that where he had worked. And she comes to me and she says, ca can I follow him? You know, you're about to open this restaurant. And I'm like, Are you are you ridiculous? You're gonna watch us like battling and blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. But she was so disarming that I just said, I'm gonna let it happen. And honestly, Paul and I got along really well. And

The first menu.

Was a prefix of $79, but you could choose what you ate. So prefix sometimes means set menu, which in New York now everything's a set menu with a set price. Everybody eats the same food. But you could choose. We get three stars again from who Frank Bruni, who hosed he hosed him when he was at Alice. No, but in the movie, and Frank's in the movie, he speaks high highly. We got two.

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