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Why the Best Champagne Comes From Growers, Not the Big Houses. Plus Per Se's Yes vs Noma's No, and working with your spouse.

Headshot of Sandia Chang

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About this episode

#135

Josh sits down with chef and sommelier Sandia Chang for a conversation that spans 20 years of restaurants on both sides of the Atlantic. From her start on the fish station at Bouley in 2003, to four years at Per Se under Thomas Keller, to a stint at Noma in Copenhagen alongside her now-husband James Knappett, Sandia eventually landed in London where the two opened Bubble Dogs (a champagne and hot dog bar on Charlotte Street) and Kitchen Table, now a two Michelin star restaurant. Along the way she became one of the UK's most knowledgeable voices on grower champagne and built Bubble Shop, her online platform for small-family producers most operators have never heard of.


The conversation moves between the two service philosophies that defined her path. Per Se's "yes to everything" approach, where the team would prepare a different potato for Mick Jagger with every course, and Noma's "we will not make a cocktail because we are not great at making cocktails" approach. Sandia explains why both are right and how she's blended them at Kitchen Table. They dig into why simple food like a hot dog is harder to execute than a 20 course tasting menu, what actually changes when you get your second Michelin star (spoiler: the box checkers show up), the economics and politics of importing grower champagne into the UK, and the truth about running a restaurant with your spouse. It closes with the advice Sandia gave at the end: you don't go into something because you know what to do, you go into something because you want to learn how to do it.

Links and resources 📌

Visit meez: https://www.getmeez.com

Follow meez on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/getmeez

Follow Josh on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/joshlsharkey/?hl=en

Follow Josh on LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/joshua-sharkey-406965b/

Follow Sandia on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/watermelonchang/

Follow Sandia on LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/sandia-chang-684152227/

Visit Kitchen Table: https://kitchentablelondon.co.uk/

Visit Bubbleshop: https://bubbleshoplondon.com/

What We Cover

03:55 Restaurant Life Around School Pickups

08:34 From Hospitality School To Bouley

14:47 Meeting James And Moving To Noma

17:40 Per Se Says Yes, Noma Says No

24:26 Casual But Excellent Service

29:46 Grower Champagne Versus Big Houses

40:02 Why Hot Dogs Work With Bubbles

48:55 Bubble Dogs And The Champagne Shop

01:01:09 Advice: Learn By Doing

Transcript

Sandia Chang (00:00.046)It was mind blowing. Like you come from per se where Thomas Keller is, like, you know, it's yes. It's not only yes, it's yes, and you take it beyond yes. You know, you say yes to McDagger of having potatoes with every course. Then you prepare like a different potato with every course. It's like, you know, and and then going to NOMA, people are like, Can I have a cocktail? You say, No. But you have everything to make a cocktail, but yes, still no. And then their idea is that, you know.

If they can't make something good, why make it? Yeah. If their ethos is not about, you know, having a huge cocktail list, why would they go out of their way to make something that they're not really good at? They are all about, you know, whatever they're about and they're gonna do that and they're gonna do it well. And that was it.

Joshua Sharkey (00:45.912)They're both right. You're just deciding what your what your brand is, what your culture is, you know.

You're listening to the Mies Podcast. I'm your host, Josh Sharkey, the founder and CEO of Mies, a culinary operating system for food professionals. On the show, we're gonna talk to high performers in the food business, everything from chefs to CEOs, technologists, writers, investors, and more about how they innovate and operate and how they consistently execute at a high level, day after day. And I would really love it if you could drop us a five-star review anywhere that you listen to your podcast. That could be Apple, that could be Spotify.

It could be Google. I'm not picky. Anywhere works, but I really appreciate the support. And as always, I hope you enjoy the show.

Sandia Chang (01:31.95)I've been following you since I left Boulay as well as all the other kids from Boulay. I say kids but we're not really kids, are we?

Joshua Sharkey (01:38.934)It's a whole I mean, yeah, everybody everybody's crushing.

Sandia Chang (01:41.26)it's like a lifetime ago. Gosh. Yeah.

Joshua Sharkey (01:45.304)But you were there before me and then I think you were you were like this elusive like Candia's here to step in for a little bit, but you had already left and then you came back for a little bit before.

Sandia Chang (01:54.446)Came back for a for an expediter role. And then then I realized very quickly I was prob I probably left for a good reason and I shouldn't have come back. You know, when you when you're like on a on a good you know, you're good there and you left. And I should have just kept it like that. But yeah, it was still Caesar and, you know, the craziness at that time. I went to per se after that. I would say maybe like two months after that, two, three months.

Joshua Sharkey (02:16.642)Yeah. And then w do you went to Per se after that?

Sandia Chang (02:24.012)I w I explore other things. I want to be a bartender. Then I started making light tea martinis down in Chinatown with the mic. And then per se had a fire and reopened and was looking for front of a house and and that's when I took that job there.

Joshua Sharkey (02:39.97)That's wild. I remember the first time I ate a per se because Boulet had ripped out the Moltaini and we were putting it in a new stove and we had like a week off unpaid. I was

Sandia Chang (02:47.982)And did they treat you to dinner at Per se? Probably not.

Joshua Sharkey (02:52.95)No, but like Dave Santos and I and his Veronica, his ex wife and and my and a friend of mine, we went to Per se like on Sunday of that week. It was incredible. And then I flew to San Francisco like the next day and ate at like the fifth floor and a bunch of places and then French laundry. And you know, like we don't we don't work.

Sandia Chang (03:10.784)No. No, we don't.

Joshua Sharkey (03:13.902)So, okay, I have like a billion questions I want to ask you because I was actually just talking about you yesterday because I was on the call with this company from London and they were like, yeah, I know, kitchen table and then don't they have a hot dog thing? Yeah, I think they I mean they did some pop ups and it came back for a little bit, but we have to talk hot dogs a little bit. You know, I have a million questions about champagne because I didn't realize how deep you went into the world of champagne. But let's just start with like what are you doing now? You know, where are you spending most of your time?

Sandia Chang (03:25.774)Cool.

Sandia Chang (03:31.406)Yeah.

Sandia Chang (03:43.714)What am I doing now? I'm I'm juggling parenthood and and running a restaurant. So in the mornings I get the kids up, you know, school, whatever, get them to school, and then I go into work and do admin while the kids are in school. Then I come home, I do school pickups, after school clubs, and then prepare dinner and then wait for the nanny to come. And then I go back into service about three nights a week I do that. Yeah. Our restaurant operates five days a week. So I do three days and

And James says all five days. My husband.

Joshua Sharkey (04:15.278)Did you feel a big shift when you guys went from one to two stars?

Sandia Chang (04:20.087)For us, operation wise, not really. It was it was all very much once surreal when it happened to like you do what you do every day, right? It wasn't like all of a sudden you get two stars and something changed. I would like to think we got two stars because we were already operating at that level. Yeah. But we got we saw a big shift in in clientele. It was a lot more sort of, you know, people who take their lists of mission stars to go to and they weren't really there for the food or the experience. They just wanted to say that they're there.

Joshua Sharkey (04:49.406)Interesting. Yeah. That's so counterintuitive to what I would think. But it makes sense though.

Sandia Chang (04:53.216)Yeah, we we did the box checkers. Did definitely see a a shift in people. But No, it's not so much these days. I mean, there's a lot of mission stars in in London especially where there's a lot of competition and so people disperse, you know, tourists come in, there's so many restaurants to choose from. So we're all right. We've we've got really nice clientele, really a lot of Americans. really? Yeah.

Joshua Sharkey (04:58.146)Is it still like that way?

Joshua Sharkey (05:17.58)Like expats or just like they're they're in town at

Sandia Chang (05:19.672)Both expats and the tourists because you know, the dining style is is counter seating and it's not a very British way of eating. One, British people don't really like tasting menus, so they like choices. They're still very much I'm not saying everybody. There's there most people are still very much into a starter main course and dessert where they can choose. And secondly, they don't like counter seating because counter seating is for the bar, the pub.

And tables are for dining out where you actually eat food. And the worst thing about us is that they don't like commut seating. So seat seating next to strangers is not ideal dining out experience. So yeah, so we're pr we're pretty out of luck when we first opened this. But thankfully we had a a really n nice write up in travel leisure at the beginning and all these Americans flock in and and it's a very American style of eating, you know, you chat with people next to you and you engage and so yeah, it's always been like that.

Joshua Sharkey (06:16.406)It's it's twenty two seats. Twenty seats. Gotcha. For everybody listening, your background's incredible. You know, Keller, Boulet, among many other, which I'd love for you to share. The fact that you transition from cooking into front of house, a little bit of a sidebar into b bartending, which is kind of the same. I do think it would be great for people to hear some advice on how and why that was really really great. And also like what do you like what what are you really excited about now? You're running, you know, this this restaurant in front of house, but like you obviously have background in all of it. Like what

Sandia Chang (06:17.752)twenty.

Sandia Chang (06:33.506)Time to sound.

Joshua Sharkey (06:46.518)What's most exciting for you today?

Sandia Chang (06:48.302)actually started in sort of front of house. So I I have a bachelor's degree in hospitality management. And when I graduated, my focus was on hotel management and operations. And I hated it because I just feel like in a hotel is such a massive, you know, organization and you do something nice like pick a right pillow for somebody, but you never get to see the the immediate reaction of it. I really wanted to do something more creative and I thought, maybe I want to be a chef. And this was the era of

Jamie Oliver, the Naked Chef, Emmera Legossi. It was all very it was all very glamorous. So I went to the CIA at Cloner Institute in Napa Valley to become a chef. And I really loved it. It was a very creative outlet and it was still within the realm of the restroom world. And moved out to New York to become a chef. And Boulet was my first job.

Joshua Sharkey (07:38.808)How did you end up deciding going from, you know, Napa, California to New York?

Sandia Chang (07:42.926)Well it's you know, everybody says if you make it in New York, you make it anywhere, right?

Joshua Sharkey (07:47.182)But did you have did you already have like a restaurant? Did you have Boolean Mine? No.

Sandia Chang (07:50.51)I packed my bag and at that time it was a Zagat Zagat guide. Yeah. Yeah. And I I took that. I I picked out the 10 top restaurants and I went door to door with my resume. WD50, is it that? Yeah. That was one of them. 2004. Or sorry, no, 2003. And Belay. I just remember walking through that hallway of apples, you know, everybody

Joshua Sharkey (08:06.53)What year was this?

Sandia Chang (08:19.414)Knows that hallway of apples and it was just amazing. And we moved there with my ex boyfriend at that time. Yeah. And and he worked there as well. So we both got a job there. Greg was his name. Yeah. So he worked the meat section and I worked the fish fish section there. Yeah. Yeah, and that was it. And

Joshua Sharkey (08:28.485)that's right.

That's right.

Joshua Sharkey (08:37.563)my gosh, I totally remember that.

Hold on, Sadia, what what were the other places you put your resume in? So it was Belay, W D was Lay Sark on there?

Sandia Chang (08:47.424)No, the Lyseric was not on there. There was somebody else. I believe it's the chef, Marco Gosh. This is like over twenty years ago.

Joshua Sharkey (08:50.69)Lebernadan.

Joshua Sharkey (08:58.03)I know, just so 'cause there wasn't that many species.

Sandia Chang (08:59.832)There wasn't maybe Danielle was one of them. huh. Danielle.

Joshua Sharkey (09:04.066)Alright, well if you remember their ones, I've just

Sandia Chang (09:05.839)So curious. Actually, I haven't thought about it for for ages. I can probably go back and look online to see the two thousand and three Zagot guide.

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