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Is Counter Service the Future of Fine Dining? Plus Hospitality Included, the Labor Crisis, and Birdies' $79 Tasting Menu

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About this episode

Josh, Mike, and Matt sit down with Arjav Ezekiel, co-owner of Birdies and James Beard Award-winning beverage director, for a candid conversation about tipping, labor, and the future of restaurant models. Drawing from his time at Union Square Hospitality Group and his experience building Birdies, Arjav unpacks the intent behind Danny Meyer’s Hospitality Included movement and why it ultimately failed. The group debates whether tipping is fundamentally broken, the role of legislation versus operators in fixing it, and how economics—not just philosophy—determines what actually works in restaurants.

The conversation then shifts to solutions, with Arjav sharing how Birdies was built from first principles to solve for labor while maintaining high-level hospitality. By blending counter service with fine dining elements, rethinking team structure, and redistributing tips, the restaurant has created a more sustainable model. The episode closes with a broader reflection on innovation in hospitality, the importance of mentorship and the dining room, and why restaurants may become one of the last meaningful spaces for human connection in an increasingly digital world.

Links and resources 📌

Visit meez: https://www.getmeez.com

Follow meez on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/getmeez

Follow Josh on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/joshlsharkey/?hl=en

Follow Josh on LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/joshua-sharkey-406965b/

Birdies: https://www.birdiesaustin.com

Arjav Ezekiel on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/arjavezekiel/

Arjav Ezekiel on LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/arjav-ezekiel-a198aa72/

What We Cover

02:32 Introducing Arjav Ezekiel And Birdies

05:40 The Debate Around Tips Included

12:05 Was Hospitality Included Doomed To Fail?

18:17 The Economics Behind Why It Didn’t Work

22:07 Can Restaurants Fix Tipping Without Legislation?

29:44 Why Labor Is The Core Problem In Restaurants

35:20 How Birdies Was Built Differently From Day One

44:01 Redefining Hospitality Without Table Service

52:33 Why The Dining Room Matters More Than Ever

Transcript

Arjav Ezekiel (00:00.226)The worst part of a dining experience is like waiting for the fucking check. So like when you're done with your meal, you just get up and leave. You know, like it's awesome to me, like the way I like eating and it solves for all the things I hated about fine dining and like you're getting a six course tasting menu, you know, at this restaurant. Like, and the great thing is you don't need a reservation. You can just walk in. So, and it's 79 bucks. So it's like.

It allows us to be really creative on the back end. the menu changes, Tracy changes the menu every month, top to bottom. So she and her cooks get to be creative and like have all the excitement and energy they would at like a grapevine dining restaurant. We bring all kinds of incredible hospitality touches. I'm like really proud of to the restaurant. And that's by listening at the counter. Like we have all these coded things that we do for guests to saying, this is their 10th anniversary and they got married in Portugal. The front.

person's like typing all this stuff and we had buttons for all of it. And then we track it and at the end of the night we can pour them like a bottle of 10 year old port from, you know, like the place they went, whatever it is. I think there are opportunities. You just have to have the right leadership in place to take advantage of those things. I think in counter service and I think there's a restaurant that's about to open in DC called Ry Bunny. was like the folks who ran.

Tail Up Goat, which is a Michelin star restaurant, they are about to open a fine dining counter service restaurant. So I think people are going to start trying this as they come to the end of their leases. Where they're just like, okay, like what do we have to lose? The last model didn't work so great. Like let's try something else. The innovation has to be around labor. We need to continue to innovate. I think restaurants haven't changed since antiquity in their structure and their model. And I don't think the choice is between fine dining and like

Fast casual. think that's like the wrong kind of paradigm. It's like, how do we think about the best of this world and the best of this world? And like, what does this world get right that this world doesn't get right? And let's find ways to connect those things and create new models. That's what's exciting, I think.

Joshua Shakrey (01:48.45)You're listening to Me's Podcast. I'm your host, Josh Sharkey, the founder and CEO of Me's, a culinary operating system for food professionals. On the show, we're going to talk to high performers in the food business, everything from chefs to CEOs, technologists, writers, investors, and more about how they innovate and operate and how they consistently execute at a high level.

day after day. And I would really love it if you could drop us a five star review anywhere that you listen to your podcast. That could be Apple, could be Spotify, could be Google. I'm not picky. Anywhere works, but I really appreciate the support. And as always, I hope you enjoy the show. Well, can you first introduce our guest who's been on the show before, but Matt, since you, since you-

Matthew Conway (02:32.43)Do you guys know each other?

Arjav Ezekiel (02:34.625)I think so.

Matthew Conway (02:36.024)Well, welcome to meet each other.

Arjav Ezekiel (02:38.894)Nice meet you, Margot.

Joshua Shakrey (02:40.695)Likewise, I switch to.

Matthew Conway (02:42.072)Setting this episode up, think is great because two episodes ago, we finished chatting about the restaurant industry and Danny Meyer came up and Michael here has a little bit of like feeling towards UnionScore hospitality group, which

Arjav Ezekiel (03:03.062)I think a lot of people do.

Matthew Conway (03:04.972)I mean, yeah, but I think in the restaurant industry in New York, it kind of can be a little controversial, but yeah, I don't think it's uncommon, but it's certainly not the popular side of the coin. So we started flushing that out a little bit and part of his animosity was towards Danny's approach to hospitality included, which was a really sensitive, sore subject for me during that time. And if any beef I have with

with that era or Danny's group, it's that. So we kinda came together on that. We're getting towards the end of the episode and we need to think of somebody that can bring a little funk to the parade.

Arjav Ezekiel (03:49.39)You just need me to argue the other side.

Matthew Conway (03:51.382)No, no, want you to do you, that's our job. You've won more awards. Award winning beverage director, you know, him and his partner own and operate birdies. They kill the game. But not only did he work for Danny Meyer at one point and has one of the biggest platforms and is, in my opinion, one of the most honest dudes in the game when it comes to his feelings and saying things that have been unpopular at times.

for other people to say and is happy to hop in the paper and be quoted on things most people want to avoid. But as we discussed briefly last week, your whole game at Birdies is fine dining counter service without traditional table side service, right? But you also still rely a little bit on gratuity to help pay the staff.

Arjav Ezekiel (04:36.034)Yeah, yeah.

Arjav Ezekiel (04:41.239)Entirely.

Matthew Conway (04:44.302)So I think, well, I want to get into and Sharkey can lead that, like, let's go back to Danny Meyer and your time at Union Square and how you feel about those things. But I think you're the most relevant person because you're actually literally forging our industry, forging our industry into a new era where so many people have mimicked, if not all, some of the changes you've made to be more profitable as a business, but also to still rely on gratuity, even if it's not included.

to help with your payroll and overall bottom line. And I think that that's a really interesting topic. It's much different than hospitality included, but you'd be in a really bad place if you didn't get gratuity for most of your customers. And I've also seen you publicly kind of, you know, bout with folks who are like, you know, we didn't want a tip, but we had to. And you've come out and said, nobody forced you to tip. So I think there's a lot of meat on the bones. We don't have a lot of time. Shark, you do want to like set it up?

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