meez podcast

Greg Baxtrom on his first cookbook, sobriety, the reality of chef driven restaurants, and the babysitter math of dining out decisions

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About this episode

Josh sits down with chef Greg Baxtrom for an unusually raw conversation about ambition, addiction, mental health, and what success actually looks like after the accolades arrive. Greg reflects on his rise through some of the world’s most influential kitchens including Alinea, Per Se, Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and his breakout success with Olmsted in Brooklyn. He opens up about how achieving the dream of critical acclaim and industry recognition did not bring the fulfillment he expected, and how sobriety, therapy, and years of self-work forced him to reevaluate his relationship with restaurants, creativity, and himself. Along the way, the two discuss restaurant economics, burnout, ego, jealousy, friendship in the industry, and why so many chefs quietly wonder how they’ll ever afford to grow old in this business.

The conversation also dives into Greg’s new cookbook and the deeply personal experiences that shaped it, including cooking through rehab and recovery, navigating bipolar diagnoses, and rediscovering joy through simpler food. Greg explains why he wanted the book to feel practical rather than precious, shares stories from his days working for Grant Achatz and Dan Barber, and reflects on the pressure of opening acclaimed restaurants in Brooklyn. The episode closes with hilarious and chaotic stories from the Bouley and Danube kitchens, including dancing with hanging pigs in walk-ins, knife fights between cooks, and the absolute madness of early 2000s fine dining culture in New York.

Links and resources 📌

Visit meez: https://www.getmeez.com

Follow meez on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/getmeez

Follow Josh on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/joshlsharkey/?hl=en

Follow Josh on LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/joshua-sharkey-406965b/

Follow Greg on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/gregbaxtrom/

Follow Greg on LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/greg-baxtrom-8a897814/

Visit Five Acres: https://www.fiveacresnyc.com/

Visit Olmsted: https://www.olmstednyc.com/

What We Cover

00:00 Greg Baxtrom on retirement anxiety in the restaurant industry

01:16 Greg’s plans for a cookbook, Chicago, and international projects

05:52 Why success and accolades did not bring fulfillment

13:47 Sobriety, therapy, and learning to rebuild life outside of restaurants

17:17 The realities of running restaurants in Brooklyn and losing Olmsted

23:36 Why Greg wants to open restaurants outside the United States

27:02 The economics of chef-driven restaurants and burnout

41:49 Greg’s new cookbook and cooking through recovery

51:24 The pressure of recognition, success, and finding balance

01:05:28 Wild Bouley and Danube kitchen stories involving pigs, knives, and chaos

Transcript

Greg Baxtrom (00:00.056)What I talk to all my chef friends, it's about how the heck do we retire in this industry? That's what we talk about. Not that we actually want to retire, but like when we're in our seventies and our bodies start failing, how will we afford that? That's what I talk to with chefs all around the world now.

Joshua Sharkey (00:19.992)You're listening to Me's Podcast. I'm your host, Josh Sharkey, the founder and CEO of Me's, a culinary operating system for food professionals. On the show, we're going to talk to high performers in the food business, everything from chefs to CEOs, technologists, writers, investors, and more.

about how they innovate and operate and how they consistently execute at a high level day after day. And I would really love it if you could drop us a five star review anywhere that you listen to your podcast. That could be Apple, that could be Spotify, could be Google. I'm not picky, anywhere works, but I really appreciate the support. And as always, I hope you enjoy the show.

Greg Baxtrom (00:59.822)Like I want to experience trying to put out a book and having to do as well. That's what this year is about. And then my plan is to get something going outside of the country and something going in Chicago in 2027. So that's, that's, I'm on track to make that happen.

Joshua Sharkey (01:11.958)Wow, dude.

Joshua Sharkey (01:16.974)Holy shit. Well, let's just get into it, man. Because, you know, I know you're going to get back to work and you've done this a bunch of times, so we're not going to do the fucking background thing.

Greg Baxtrom (01:25.504)I too into the weeds about the industry. usually, you know, very generically answer questions and keep it very positive. So this will be interesting.

Joshua Sharkey (01:32.226)Yeah, we're not we're not doing generic here, but I will give a little background for everybody that that I mean, most people should know you. This is a bunch of, you know, 40,000 chefs and restaurant folks on this podcast that most of them will know you. But you're born and raised Chicago on five acres of a farm, which is why your restaurants called that Eagle Scout, which I'm going to ask you about that because my son started Cub Scouts and I want to get some advice. You were at Kendall College and then basically like.

You've finagled your way into Alinea as a student and then turned it into a stage and then turned it actually like getting a job because somebody shit the bed, I think. Yeah. Alinea, per se, Blue Hill, the place I can't pronounce in Norway. I forget. We both spent time in Norway, so that's interesting. And then you were the private chef for Jerry Seinfeld for a while or maybe mostly. whole family.

Greg Baxtrom (02:15.47)I don't pronounce

Greg Baxtrom (02:26.2)More of the kids, I thought these were the kids. Mostly, you know.

Joshua Sharkey (02:28.878)Yeah. Yeah. well, which is interesting because you were really good at kids menus across your restaurants. Uh, and then 2016 opened Olmstead, which I experienced. I remember you talking about Olmstead when you, um, were thinking about it before you opened it. And I mean, I know it's easy to say this retrospect, but right away I was like, yeah, this is going to be fucking good. Um, although I do remember you saying at the bar that we were at that you didn't like uni or you thought it was overhyped. And then eventually you put uni on the menu.

Greg Baxtrom (02:58.774)I think people are pretending that it's great. It's like truffle. It's good when it's with something hot or fatty, like scrambled eggs or something. I don't agree that it's just undeniably delicious.

Joshua Sharkey (03:12.622)I happen to love it. Like just warm rice and uni I love.

Greg Baxtrom (03:17.164)The rice is carrying a lot of the weight on that.

Joshua Sharkey (03:19.246)It is, yeah. And it's got, yeah, like cold and hot is really good. You're right. It is, you know, you know what I don't love? I remember at Oceano, we would get the fresh uni in and just clip it, you know, like do those scissor things and like clip them off and fresh uni is not great. You got to it a little bit.

Greg Baxtrom (03:33.314)Yeah, it's good when it's mixed with the pasta or, you know, I would mix it with sweet potatoes and put it in a pierogi filling.

Joshua Sharkey (03:40.622)Yes, I remember that. All right. So you opened Olmsted 2016 and then you opened Maison Yaki, I think was that for that, which then became the French spot, Petite Patate. And then you open Patty Anne's, which is like a family style restaurant, which kind of is like that direction I saw you going. You're Midwest. Remember my wife, like how she cooks it. You know, like you have this Midwest sort of simplicity to you, but you have this wild background of, you know, the best of the best cooking. And it's a really cool, you know, combination. And along the way,

I won't remember all of these, but you got a ton of words. think food and wine best food wine restaurant of the year. Esquire best restaurant. Right. Bon Appetit 50 best.

Greg Baxtrom (04:19.022)Some of the magazines gave me best restaurant or were in the top 10.

Joshua Sharkey (04:23.928)You you launched with a big hit and it kept going. And it was just a, you know, I think that kind of food was not done that way because it was like very thoughtful and very, I don't want to say sophisticated because that's the wrong way to say it, but it was that, but it was also like very welcoming and like, you know, relaxed, you know, and, like the service was great, but also like you didn't feel like stuffy. And there wasn't a lot of that back then, at least in Brooklyn.

was either like very casual or the opposite.

Greg Baxtrom (04:54.53)My take on that stuff was that, you know, by the time I had worked at all these three Michelin star restaurants and two Michelin star restaurants, but by the time I got to the position where I could open my own restaurant, I didn't really find myself eating at those restaurants. Like I would check in on a Lenny every once in a while, but that was just more because of my history with that restaurant, you know, but I did not. And I still am not someone that wants, I mean, at least back then, like meals were six hours, five hours.

I just wasn't one of those guys that wanted to do that. I mean, I remember being the chef at Blue House Stone Barns and a well-known chef in Philadelphia. I'll keep him out of it. But he came to me after his meal at Stone Barns and we just kept blowing them up and blowing them up and kept cooking for him. And he was celebrating his wedding anniversary and he was like, dude, that was like the most amazing meal I've ever had. But I just wanted.

to sleep with my wife today after a night's meal and we're both gonna go home and crash and we're not gonna touch each other, you know? And I get it.

Joshua Sharkey (06:00.536)I feel the same way. You know, there's like a, there's just like, there's a time in your life when you can go have all those very long meals. But I remember that. I remember like my wife and I, we had one of our anniversaries. We lived in Brooklyn, but we got a hotel room in the city and we went and ate at Co. And then I think we actually did bang bang and we ate like pizza after that as well. But I remember afterwards we had this hotel room and at the Thompson hotel, but we had like this very long tasting menu and I was like,

I'm tired. Yeah. You know, it's like nine o'clock and uh, don't, I can't look at bed. You know, next, next time, why don't we do something quick? That's like an hour. Yeah. But now kids it's even, it's even more. All right. So yes, I do want to, I want to hear your perspective on industry. So we've already had a bunch of podcasts where you talked about a lot of this stuff. So people can go listen to Andrew talks to chef, friend of ours. You did a really great show there where you sort of talked a lot about that really personal, which is I think what makes this cookbook.

Greg Baxtrom (06:35.64)He's rubbed belly's and go to bed.

Joshua Sharkey (07:00.398)special because there's chefs write cookbooks to sort of highlight, you know, Hey, look at my food, which is not a bad thing by the way. But, you know, there's like that art culinary approach to cookbooks where it's like, look at all this awesome, pretty stuff, get inspired, get excited. But I think there are also this, this version of cookbook that's just like more about, uh, the why and the narrative and a little bit more like of the struggle. And I think that's what I haven't read yours obviously, cause it's, it comes out in May.

Greg Baxtrom (07:29.196)Yeah, the anime.

Joshua Sharkey (07:30.734)Well, we're going to air this like to time it. So let's just say it comes out now. I think that's a really great way to, know, I think it will be something that where you can get more nutritional value than just, okay, here's some cool recipes, you know, relate to things. So we're going to go two different directions first, because I do want to talk about the sort of mental health and substance abuse. You've already talked about the background of it. So I kind of want to talk more about like how you're dealing with things today. You're in an industry.

Greg Baxtrom (07:34.99)Right on that one.

Joshua Sharkey (08:00.408)where everywhere you go, there's booze. You're always inundated with this. How do you deal with that today?

Greg Baxtrom (08:07.15)Yeah. mean, when I was getting sober, I, you know, I hired a sober coach and I went to rehab a couple of times and all of them were telling me that I would, I would have to leave the industry if I were to actually stay sober. And, uh, you know, it was not an option for me. This is, this is all I know, but for better or worse, but also I still genuinely enjoy doing what I do for a living. I wish I was in the kitchen more than I am now that I

sold the restaurants that I had in Brooklyn and I just have this thing at Rock Center. It's really busy and it's doing well. But I find myself more on the admin side, which I'm hoping that I can delegate in the near future and kind of reshift. So I'm more, I still write all the recipes and come up with the menu and stuff, but I, with the exception of bailing out Garmagé every once in a while, I'm not really cooking as much as I would like, you know.

Joshua Sharkey (09:02.638)Yeah, but like, you know, the idea of stopping, like you gotta stop drinking and it's around you or stop whatever those things are that are around you. I actually agree with you. Like the idea of just, just don't put it in your, just don't surround yourself with it. This doesn't really solve the problem.

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